NA Beer: You’ve Come a Long Way, Baby

It certainly wasn’t non-alcoholic beer that Fatboy Slim was thinking about when he named his classic 1998 album, You’ve Come a Long Way, Baby. But it sure seems to be the perfect title to describe how far non-alcoholic beers have evolved in the past few of years. Look back at the NA beer landscape of 2020 and it is truly unrecognizable from the wealth of choices we now enjoy.

Up until around 2015, NA beer was nothing more than an industry afterthought. Mediocre offerings from O’Doul’s or Sharp’s would gather dust in the back of under-bar fridges and once in a blue moon might you see an equally unappealing Buckler or Kaliber. There was really no getting around the fact that they tasted awful, withering the argument that something is better than nothing.

The latter half of the last decade saw a handful of breweries -- Bravus, WellBeing, Surreal and Athletic -- starting to create craft non-alcoholic beers reflecting the styles that regular (traditional) beer drinkers were consuming, and producing non-alcoholic versions of them. IPAs, hazy IPAs, and pilsners, wheat beers were now options, elbowing past their poor-quality predecessors of decades past.

Then COVID came along and everything changed. People drank more alcohol to cope with the uncertainty, realized that wasn't a very good idea, and very quickly looked for healthier alternatives. The floodgates then opened. More dedicated non-alcoholic breweries popped up across the country. Traditional breweries started taking note, adding NA versions of their flagship brews to appeal to an ever-growing consumer base of NA beer drinkers. Fast forward to today, and there are hundreds of NA beers of every style available nationwide, from nationally-distributed breweries to regional and local players. NA beer lovers have never had it so good.

The Zero Proof has hand-selected a series of some of the best options out there. Here are a few you should look out for:

Athletic Brewing – Stump Jump

In an ocean of IPAs and pilsners, a brown ale is a rare thing in the world of non-alcoholic beer. To be fair, even in the fully-leaded beer world, they aren’t exactly a dime a dozen. Trends come and go, and when brown ales, traditionally more of a fall beer, have to muscle their way onto limited tap or shelf space, you’ll often find some version of a pumpkin spice already camped out, or consumers have jumped to the richer depth of stouts and porters.

Thankfully, Athletic Brewing saw the gap and produced Stump Jump – Autumn Brown. It’s been a popular seasonal release from the Connecticut brewery, and calls for it to become year-round have benefited members of Athletic’s Beer Club. Lucky for you, The Zero Proof also offers Stump Jump -- and while brown ales can have a reputation for being a bit boring, this is anything but.

Medium-bodied, with warm bready malts and a nutty caramel richness, Stump Jump is the beer tradition says we should be drinking as the weather cools and the leaves fall. In truth, this non-alcoholic brown ale is one for all seasons.

Heaps Normal – Half Day Hazy and Another Golden

Sydney-based Heaps Normal has been making serious waves since opening during COVID. If Athletic is the success story of non-alcoholic beer in the U.S., Heaps Normal has achieved similar heights in Australia -- changing cultural perceptions around NA beer and landing a massive 4,000 accounts within its first two years. They’ve since expanded into New Zealand, Singapore, the UK and now the U.S.

The Zero Proof carries two beers from the Heaps Normal range:

Half Day Hazy — an extraordinary hazy, soft with understated carbonation and tropical notes of pineapple, mango and a flicker of lemon, all grounded by a sheer wheat backdrop. There’s just a mild hint of bitterness on the exit, but it’s gone before you can quite put your finger on it. Half Hazy Day is confidently elegant in itself and with good reason.

Another Golden — exactly what you’d expect from a classic Australian lager: clean, crisp, and built to quench the thirst on a hot Aussie summer day. Light-bodied with a gorgeous golden hue, it delivers biscuity malts and a delicate floral character, finishing mildly bitter with a grassy edge. A lager that keeps you coming back for more.

Harley-Davidson – Road King American Pilsner

When Harley-Davidson announced it had launched a non-alcoholic beer, it raised more than a few eyebrows. But with changing consumer habits, a common-sense approach to not drinking while driving, and the power of a brand that size... it actually makes sense.

What also made sense was partnering with Wisconsin Brewing to create a beer the brand’s millions of followers would embrace. The result? Road King, an American pilsner built for... well, riding, I suppose!

Let’s be honest. Many American pilsners can feel a little lacking in the flavor department. Road King isn’t guilty of that. Wisconsin Brewing has created a bolder spin on the style, with bready malt depth balanced by a surprisingly assertive hop character. There’s a touch of sweetness, hints of caramel and citrus, and more complexity than you’d typically expect.

A surprisingly impressive collaboration.

Years – Pilsner

If you haven’t come across Years Original Pils yet, it’s high time you did. The John Mulaney-backed (no joke) Midwest brewery is quickly making a name for itself in the NA beer world -- and for good reason.

Their Original Pils is one of the best I’ve had. It pours a lovely golden hue with a slight haze and a gorgeous frothy head. The malts are light and bready, while (presumably) Midwest Zuper Saazer hops add a floral lift with an earthy undertone and maybe a hint of tangerine.

The finish is mildly bitter with a faint black tea note. Smooth, flavorful, and very easy to drink. Basically... they nailed it.

Good Time Brewing – Pilsner

If German-style pilsners are more your thing, Good Time Brewing has you covered. The New York brewery was founded by Mikey McFerran, who worked in bars across Glasgow, London and New York before opening The Spaniard in Manhattan—so he knows a thing or two about the drinks world.

A family health incident in 2021 led him to rethink what a bar’s social scene could look like for those not drinking alcohol. The result: Good Time Brewing.

Their Pils is one of the best non-alcoholic German-style examples I’ve tried. If you lean toward hops over malt, this is one to seek out. Highly carbonated and straw-colored with a slight unfiltered haze, it’s hop-forward with a refreshing bite. Lemon notes combine with grass and hay, sitting atop minimal malt sweetness and finishing with a firm, satisfying bitterness.

Good stuff.

Go Brewing – Sunshine State Tropical IPA

If you like your hazy IPAs with the tropical dial turned all the way up, Go Brewing’s Sunshine State Tropical IPA is about as juicy as they come.

One of the Chicago brewery’s bestsellers, it leans heavily into mango, with flashes of peach darting in the background. While the fruit leads early, the hops take over, with BRU-1 and Zamba adding layers of tropical character while also dialing things back with a floral, slightly herbaceous finish.

It reinforces the beer as exactly that—a beer—not just carbonated fruit juice.

While I probably wouldn’t take this to a tailgate, it feels like just the beer for a backyard BBQ with friends.

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So, there you have it! A fine selection of non-alcoholic beers for you to work your way through. Norman Cook, aka Fatboy Slim, opened up that late ‘90s album with perhaps his most famous song to date. So just to tie a neat bow on this article as I bring it to a close: all these beer are available … "Right Here, Right Now."